Nov 28, 201110:34 AM
Exploring the South Shore one bite at a time
Measuring Up
Lucky for me, my husband is a good son. He helps his elderly parents with all manner of chores, raking, air-conditioner removal and wood chopping, and though he does it all without expecting a thing in return, they like to thank him sometimes. Their gratitude typically takes the form of an invitation to a dinner out, and though I’m nowhere near as deserving as my husband, I get to attend by default.
Which is how, on a recent Friday night, we found ourselves accompanying them to a table in a glass corner at Atlantica, overlooking the lobster boats moored in Cohasset Harbor. You can’t beat the location, and we’ve been there for many family celebrations. Though, my previous impression of the food had been mediocre. I was aware that a new chef had come on board several months ago, so on that Friday, hope reigned supreme.
When we arrived, pre-dinner-crowd early, the restaurant was almost empty. A smiling hostess seated us in my father-in-law’s favorite table and though the sun had set, lights reflecting off the water enhanced the atmosphere. We were toasty warm as we perused our menus, which featured fish and seafood, as well as grilled meat entrees. Sipping wine, we emptied a small bread basket while deciding between such offerings as seared center cut swordfish ($28) applewood bacon wrapped cod ($24), cedar plank roasted salmon ($25) and osso bucco ($36). The menu also includes a selection of grilled seafood and steaks ($25-33), accompanied by the diner’s choice of toppings, and sides.
In the end, it was a shellfish night all around. My mother-in-law and I both chose pan seared jumbo sea scallops which came with a parsnip and potato purée, crisp shiitake mushrooms, micro green and herb salad, red burgundy sauce, and white truffle oil ($27). The dish encompassed the best of both worlds, succulent sea scallops seared to perfection, and a rich, meaty sauce that would go equally well with a butter-tender steak. The mushrooms added additional pops of flavor and we both scraped our plates. My husband chose his scallops off the grilled menu ($25). He dug into his sides of mashed potatoes and stir-fried vegetables and cleaned his plate too.
Perhaps the most intriguing plate of the evening was my father-in-law’s paella ($25), the Spanish specialty, in this case comprised of shrimp, scallops, littlenecks, mussels, and chorizo cooked with tomatoes and saffron rice. The entrée’s presence on the menu spoke to the new chef’s creativity and the portion looked huge. My in-laws first had paella in Cuba in the late 1950s, so they know the real deal. The comments of this dish were also favorable.
At the end of our meal, we were pulling at our waistbands, but my husband and I examined the dessert menu just to be sure. Although we both moaned at the decadent description of a chocolate molten cake, tight zippers dictated we pass. As we exited the then-crowded restaurant, I announced, “That was the best meal I’ve eaten here.”
In the past, when dining at Atlantica, we paid for the picturesque location. On that recent night however, it seemed as if the food is catching up to the view. I’d like to try it again. Is it wrong of me to hope my husband gets a lot of shoveling in for his parents this winter?
Liza Carens Salerno is a freelance writer from the South Shore with a love of great food. Her work has appeared in Boston Globe Magazine, South Shore Living, Adoptive Families Magazine, Writersdigest.com and the Mariner newspapers. She also writes marketing materials for small businesses and uses her extensive background in HR to develop client resumes. Find out more at www.lcswrites.com, or read Liza’s blog at www.middlepassages-lcs.blogspot.com.
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