Oct 27, 201108:33 AM
Exploring the South Shore one bite at a time
Rainy Day Diner
When my Culinary Institute of America-trained boss makes a food recommendation, it seems like a good idea to listen. As a result, on a wet morning no good for outdoor anything, I convinced my regular walking buddy to take a breakfast field trip to the Wheelhouse Diner in North Quincy. There aren’t many places left that employ the term “diner” and still project the bygone image of that term. Opening the door to the Wheelhouse though, is like peering into the 1950’s—or earlier. A narrow railroad car on Hancock Street, dwarfed by tall brick condominium and office buildings, it is inconsequential enough that I would have driven by had my friend not been playing copilot.
We are both glad she was. In spite of the petite size—about ten stainless steel and leather topped stools line a counter across from a handful of booths—an empty spot waited for us. As we squinted to read the name on the autographed picture behind the counter (Donnie Wahlberg?), a no-nonsense waitress provided tea, coffee and menus—her distinct lack of conversational chitchat communicating we’d be prudent not to dilly-dally over our decisions.
I didn’t have to. I’d read on line that the corned beef hash at Wheelhouse is homemade, which was good enough for me, so I went for my standard; two eggs over easy and home fries, plus the hash for $6.50. Done. My friend selected a Greek omelet, stuffed with tomatoes, olives, spinach and cheese. Both orders came with toast. Our plates arrived quickly, minus my hash; with wheat toast instead of the raisin I requested. I’ll give the waitress the benefit of the doubt—my voice is soft and the small place was full. I kept the wheat and she put the hash order in for me right away. Several minutes later, a grilled cake of seasoned beef with crusty brown edges joined what was left on my plate. It was worth the wait.
Wheelhouse Diner offers traditional breakfast fare, plus some less expected dishes, including an Irish breakfast featuring blood sausages. In a nod to the 21st century, a white board scribbled with omelet variations hangs by one door. Another board over the counter features lunch and sandwich specials.
The place is small, the service quick; seats turn over fast. In such a close area, it was hard to ignore the three customers waiting for a seat, so I passed on another coffee refill and we hustled out the door. Rats. I’ll have to go back another time to get a closer look at that autograph.
Wheelhouse Diner, 453 Hancock Street, North Quincy, (617) 328-3666, http://www.facebook.com/pages/Wheelhouse-Diner/170177946357375
Liza Carens Salerno is a freelance business writer from the South Shore. She works part-time at a cheese shop and can’t decide which is more fun—working with food or writing about it. Liza blogs at http://www.middlepassages-lcs.blogspot.com.
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